The Rough Collie is the same as the Smooth Collie with the exception of coat length.
Although Rough and Smooth Collies have a working heritage, they do not need to live somewhere with acres of garden and only need moderate exercise. Smooth Collies, in general, are more energetic than Roughs. They are more athletic and agile, more outgoing, and retain more working instincts.
Collies have a soft, sweet personality. They are generally good with other pets and polite with strangers. Despite the Rough Collie's immense coat, there is a misconception that they require daily brushing and regular bathing. However, they only need to be brushed about once a week, with the hair trimmed from around their feet and hocks every month or so.
The need for brushing may increase during moulting — once a year for males and after a season for females. Collies are also a very clean breed and are noted for not having a doggie odour.
BASIC NEEDS
Access to a fresh supply of drinking water
A good balanced diet
Daily exercise
Socialisation from an early age
Love, affection and company
Collies are a healthy breed and generally only need their puppy boosters and annual vaccinations. If they are sick, you should seek advice from your vet. Warning signs include refusing food, lethargy, diarrhoea with or without blood, trauma, difficulty breathing, exposure to toxic substances, an extended abdomen or abdominal pain, urinary problems, seizures or unconsciousness.
BRINGING YOUR NEW PUPPY HOME
Before you bring your new puppy home, check your garden and repair any gaps in the fence. Remove toxic chemicals such as weed killer and slug pellets from their reach, cover ponds and consider whether there are any poisonous plants they may be able to eat.
Your new puppy can ride home in the back seat on a passenger's lap or in a crate, but must not travel loose in the car. If you are travelling alone, use a crate for the puppy's safety and your own.
Your puppy may cry a little. This is completely normal because his whole world has changed and he needs time to get to know you and adjust. Have towels or newspaper available in case he is sick during the journey. He may only have travelled in a car once before for a veterinary check.
Go straight home rather than stopping to visit relatives or friends. Keep everything calm and simple. Avoid lots of new visitors and allow time for you both to adjust, as this can be a stressful time for both the puppy and the new owner.
When you get home, take your puppy into the garden because he will probably need to relieve himself. He may be distracted at first, but nature usually calls quite quickly. Give him plenty of praise when he goes in the area you have chosen.
Some puppies may race around the house in overstimulated overdrive, while others will curl up beneath something and watch their new world wide-eyed. Imagine being suddenly whisked away to a world you did not know existed and adopted by beings you had never met.
Do not hurry to introduce your puppy to other pets. Gradual introductions give them time to adjust to each other. Baby gates are useful because pets can see and smell each other without being in one another's space.
TOYS
Your puppy is at the stage when everything can be chewed. Suggested homemade toys include empty plastic milk bottles or cartons and empty juice or water bottles. Always remove the plastic ring from around the neck of a bottle before giving it to your puppy.
Finished kitchen and toilet rolls and small cardboard boxes can also provide entertainment until they are shredded. Always supervise your puppy and remove any small or damaged pieces that could be swallowed.
Do not give puppies soft rubber toys or children's toys with eyes or other parts that could be removed and swallowed. There are many specialist puppy toys available, particularly washable toys that squeak. A Puppy Kong can also provide many hours of enjoyment.
HOUSE TRAINING
It is common, normal and expected for your puppy to have accidents and relieve himself in places other than your garden.
Take your puppy outside as soon as he wakes, after food and during play when he starts circling, sniffing or preparing to squat. Stay outside with him and give him plenty of praise when he goes.
Puppies under 16 weeks old do not have the same control of their muscles as older dogs. Be patient and consistent and your puppy will soon understand what is expected.
THE FIRST NIGHT
Remember that until now your puppy has spent his whole life surrounded by the warmth of his mother and siblings. He now has a completely new environment to cope with, so it is natural for him to feel anxious and cry when left.
A puppy's natural response may be to cry, howl or squeal during the first night. Leaving a radio playing quietly, a small light, a ticking clock or a suitable soft toy to cuddle may help him settle.
Some people prefer to keep a puppy near them for the first few nights, allowing him to sleep in the bedroom in a dog bed or secure puppy area. This can provide reassurance while he settles into his new home.
Introducing your puppy to other dogs in the family
Always supervise interactions between your puppy and other family pets, especially during the first one or two weeks while they get to know one another. Do not leave them alone together.
Keep existing routines such as walks, playtimes and mealtimes as normal as possible. Let the puppy gradually fit into the routine you already have.
Closely monitor situations that may trigger conflict, including when you return home, when guests arrive, and around walks, playtimes and meals.
Spend individual time with each dog so your older dog continues to receive the attention he or she is used to, while your puppy has the opportunity to develop a bond with you.
An older dog may correct a puppy and teach him some manners. Some growling or snapping may occur, but do not allow it to become excessive and do not let the puppy continually harass the older dog.
If a fight begins, separate them safely and calmly. Until they have fully accepted one another, keep them in separate rooms or parts of the house whenever you cannot supervise them.
FEEDING TIME
Your breeder should have given you a diet sheet and some of the food your puppy is accustomed to eating. Keep your puppy on the breeder's recommended food for at least the first few weeks. Any later changes should be introduced gradually.
From eight weeks old, a puppy's daily food allowance should normally be divided into four meals. At approximately four months this can usually be reduced to three meals, and at six months to two meals.
Reputable food manufacturers provide feeding guidelines on their packaging. Collie puppies and youngsters are generally classed as medium-sized dogs, although the correct amount will depend on the individual puppy and the food being used.
Many Collies are happiest eating the same food each day. If you change foods, introduce the new food gradually over several days by mixing an increasing amount with the existing food.
If your puppy develops an upset stomach but otherwise seems bright and well, consider whether he may have been overfed or given too many rich extras. If diarrhoea continues, contains blood, or the puppy seems unwell, contact your veterinary surgeon promptly.
A healthy puppy should have a good appetite. Refusing food can indicate that the puppy is feeling unwell. Watch for diarrhoea, vomiting, lethargy or other symptoms and seek veterinary advice when necessary.
Do not give your puppy chocolate because it is toxic to dogs. Puppies have very sharp teeth while teething and naturally need to chew, so provide safe toys and chews to help prevent them chewing furniture and household objects.
VACCINATIONS AND WORMING
Your breeder should tell you which vaccinations and worming treatments your puppy has already received. Take this information with you when you register the puppy with your veterinary practice.
Your vet will advise you about the appropriate vaccination programme and when your puppy can safely begin walking in public places. Vaccination protocols may vary depending on the products used and your puppy's individual circumstances.
Until your vet confirms that your puppy is protected, avoid areas frequented by unknown or unvaccinated dogs. Your puppy can still be carried outside and safely introduced to different sights, sounds and people.
Do not use any product containing ivermectin, or a related drug, on a Collie unless it has been specifically prescribed by a veterinary surgeon who understands the breed's MDR1 sensitivity.
Some Collies carry an MDR1 gene variant that can make them unusually sensitive to certain medicines. Always tell your veterinary surgeon that your dog is a Collie and discuss suitable treatments.
CLICK HERE FOR VACCINATION GUIDELINES
Do not use an ivermectin-based worming product or combined worming-and-flea product on your Collie without veterinary advice. See the article about MDR1 for further information about medicines that may need to be avoided.
COLLARS AND LEADS
Everyone has different preferences regarding collars and leads. Many Collie owners use either a rolled leather lead or an adjustable half-check leather collar.
A good-quality leather collar and lead may last for the lifetime of your dog. Many ordinary pet shops do not stock the styles most commonly used for Collies, so you may need to purchase them from a specialist retailer.
When buying a half-check collar for a puppy, an adjustable design can be useful because it may continue to fit as the puppy grows into adulthood. Check the fit frequently while your puppy is growing.
EXERCISE
A young puppy will tire easily and spend a great deal of time sleeping. Do not allow a puppy to run or play boisterously with older dogs for long periods.
Exercise should be suitable for the puppy's age, development and individual needs. Avoid forced exercise, repetitive jumping and excessive running while the puppy's bones and joints are developing. Ask your breeder or veterinary surgeon if you are unsure.
Always carry waste bags while walking your dog and clear up after him. Apart from being considerate to others, failing to do so may result in a fine.
CLICK HERE FOR ADVICE FROM THE KENNEL CLUB ON EXERCISE FOR A PUPPY
TRAINING
Your young puppy may not have been lead trained. Once your veterinary surgeon confirms it is safe, socialisation can continue through carefully managed introductions to different people, dogs, places and experiences.
Collie puppies are responsive and intelligent, although excessive repetition may cause them to lose interest. Keep training sessions short, varied and enjoyable.
Your puppy will look to you for leadership and guidance. Be firm, consistent and gentle. Praise good behaviour frequently and use a small puppy treat when appropriate.
GROOMING
Grooming keeps your dog's coat in good condition and also helps to build a close bond with your puppy. Your puppy will not require regular bathing.
The first full bath may be considered after the first major coat loss at approximately 14 months old. Groom out all the dead and loose hair before bathing and use a specialist shampoo made for dogs.
Once bathed, allow the dog to shake off the surplus water before towel drying. If your puppy acquires fleas, ask your veterinary surgeon to recommend a suitable treatment that is safe for Collies.
Puppies need to become accustomed to brushing from a young age. Begin with short, little-and-often sessions using a soft brush. This should help grooming become a pleasant experience for both of you.
Some puppies will not initially stand still to be brushed. Do not allow the puppy to play with the brush because it is not a toy. It can be helpful to stand the puppy on a sturdy, non-slip table and ask someone to assist so that the puppy cannot jump off and hurt himself.
Reward and praise your puppy throughout the grooming session and finish with a cuddle and a treat.
Rough and Smooth Collies have different grooming needs. The Smooth Collie has a “wash and wear” coat. A weekly brush with a rubber curry comb or wash leather, together with a slicker brush when moulting, is usually sufficient.
Rough Collies require more work, but with the correct tools and some practice you can keep your Collie in good condition with a weekly brush. Your puppy's breeder should also be able to offer advice.
Collies are naturally clean dogs and do not require regular baths. Even if they become muddy, the dirt can usually be brushed out once it has dried. A bath once or twice a year when moulting is normally sufficient.
Please note that, although it may seem as though clipping would keep a dog cooler, it is likely to have the opposite effect. A Collie's coat helps to insulate the dog against heat as well as cold.
Everyone has their own favourite grooming equipment, but the basics include a bristle brush or Maxi Pin brush, a comb and scissors for trimming the hair around the paws and underneath between the pads.
The weekly brushing routine should begin with a brush and finish with a comb. Work to a regular routine so you do not miss any areas, paying particular attention behind the ears and behind the front legs.
You can wipe the dog's coat with a baby wipe, damp flannel or microfibre cloth and lightly mist it with water or a specialist grooming spray to help keep it fresh and clean.
Useful step-by-step photographs showing how to trim your Rough Collie's feet can be found HERE.
Spray the dog's coat lightly with water or grooming spray and brush the coat in the opposite direction to which it grows. Pay particular attention to the soft, fluffy hair behind the ears and elbows, where knots can form.
If your dog develops a knot, hold the base of it as close to the skin as possible and gently tease it apart with a comb or slicker brush. Do not tug or pull. Specialist detangling products can also be useful to keep in your grooming kit.
THE SPAYED OR NEUTERED COAT
It is worth noting that the loss of hormones following spaying or neutering can sometimes affect a Collie's coat. It may become finer, softer, fluffier or more difficult to manage.
This is primarily a cosmetic coat change, but owners should be aware that additional grooming may be required. Discuss the appropriate timing and medical reasons for neutering with your veterinary surgeon.
The photographs below show one of my girls at ten years old. She was spayed at six years old because of a pyometra, which is a serious womb infection.
She needed brushing twice a week. Because of the texture of her coat, I could groom my other four Rough Collies in the time it took to groom her.
Although she had been brushed only a few days before these photographs were taken, her coat had a very different texture and was almost like cotton wool or a sheep's fleece.
The easiest way to work through this type of coat was to bathe her and use a blaster dryer, which reached down to the skin and helped remove dead hair.
It is not only Collies whose coats may be affected by neutering. See the article here from a Cocker Spaniel reader.
Excess hair should be trimmed from the feet so it is level with the pads and neatly follows the outline of the paw. Some people prefer to use blunt-ended scissors.
Check your dog's eyes and the inside of the ears regularly, as well as the length of the toenails. Pay particular attention to the dew claws, which are found above the paw on the inside of the front legs and do not wear down naturally.
If the nails become too long, they may need trimming. If you are not confident doing this yourself, ask an experienced groomer or your veterinary practice for help.
Like all dogs, Collies should have their teeth kept clean. There are many specialist toothbrushes and dog toothpastes available. Regular dental care can help prevent painful and expensive problems later.
Never give your dog cooked bones because they can splinter and cause choking, obstruction or internal injury.
If you would like further grooming advice, please see our list of Collie owners willing to offer help in your area here.
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